Parrot Behaviour - Screaming and other Vocalizations

Screaming and other Vocalizations.

a) Contact with Flock Members. Parrots in the wild often screech so they can
keep track of each other. They primarily do this at dawn and dusk. Mated pairs sometimes “duet” and vocalize together.

a) Sentinel Behavior. This has been seen in African grays, cockatoos, and Pyrhurra Conures. Parrots often scream in response to something they perceive to be a potential threat.

d) Wants Attention. Parrots will vocalize to get attention.

e) Mating Season. Parrots will screech more often during mating season to advertise their territory and to attract a mate.

How to Respond to a Screaming Parrot:

-Note that all parrots make some noise. Behavior modification is only needed if the parrot screams non-stop for long periods of time. Some parrots, such as Aratinga Conures, Nanday Conures, Patagonian Conures, Amazons, Macaws, and Cockatoos are known for being quite loud.

a) Don’t Yell Back. This will reinforce the behavior.

b) Be sure the Environment isn’t too loud. Loud households often produce loud parrots. Place the parrot in a quieter area, but make sure that the spot is not too secluded, and that the bird will still receive lots of attention.

c) Teach it a New Sound. Encourage the parrot to whistle, talk, trill or beep when it wants attention.

d) Toys, Attention. Make sure the parrot has enough to do and that it isn’t too lonely.

e) Provide White Noise. Play a radio quietly to mask other sounds that could be bothering your parrot.

f) Anticipate the screaming. Figure out when the screaming usually starts and provide a distraction. For example, give it a shower at that time so it’s busy preening.

Feather Picking: Why?

Feather Picking: Why?

This is one of the more frustrating problems a parrot owner can face. Feather destruction by overpreening, shredding or plucking, is a symptom of another problem rather than being a disease itself. It’s most common in Cockatoos and African grays, and it is also common in Quakers, Conures, and Eclectus parrots. And, although it’s been seen in all parrot species, it is rare in Amazons, Pionus parrots and Poicephalus parrots. It can often take some detective work to figure out what’s wrong.


a) Health Reasons

i. Giardia. The presence of this intestinal parasite can cause a parrot to shred the feathers just below its neckline.

ii. Skin Problems. Itchy skin, external parasites, feather cysts, or a skin infection can all cause discomfort that could cause a parrot to destroy its feathers. Many pet stores sell flea, tick and lice remedies for parrots. Never use these without receiving advice from a vet. External parasites are not common in house birds.

iii. Malnutrition. A bad diet can give a parrot dry, itchy skin that may cause it to pluck or shred its feathers.

iv. Bad Wing Clip. If the parrot was clipped too severely and cannot glide to the ground if it slips, the resulting anxiety could cause feather plucking. It you’re not sure how to clip a bird properly, consult someone who does and get his or her help.

v. Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease. This is a viral disease that causes the feathers to look very abnormal. If the bird’s head feathers look bad, this could be the cause.

vi. Internal Pain. If a bird picks at one spot, this could be the cause. For example, a bird with fatty liver disease may pick at the skin above its liver.

vii. Zinc toxicity. Heavy metals can be toxic to parrots. Very old cages may have bits of metal flaking off. If the parrot ingests these, it may become ill.

viii. Allergies. These can cause dry itchy skin.

b) Psychological Reasons (These are the cause of most feather destruction problems)

i. Grief. Parrots may pluck if the lose a favorite person or mate.

ii. Stress. A number of things can cause stress. For example, an anxious shy parrot may feather pluck if it’s placed in a noisy area with nowhere to go where it feels safe. If a pet parrot starts destroying its feathers, try to determine if anything in the environment changed when the problem started.

iii. Boredom. A parrot with nothing to do may feather pick because of boredom. Make sure the bird has a big cage, and lots of toys, and that it gets plenty of time out of the cage.

iv. Overpreening. The parrot may not be preening its feathers properly, or it’s doing it too much.

v. Hormones. Some female birds pull some breast feathers out of their chests during the breeding season. They do this to create a brood patch, or a warmer spot on the skin, to use to incubate eggs. However, this is not common in pets. Other birds may pluck out of frustration with not having a mate.

Interpreting Parrot Behavior - Why do Birds Bite?

Biting: Why do Birds Bite?

a) The Bird is a Baby.

Baby parrots use their beaks to explore the world and to test things. This behavior should be discouraged. However, a dramatic response (loud yelling or laughing) may encourage the behavior. Harsh punishment also won’t work. Teach the bird “step-up” so you have more control over the bird. Be sure to practice step-ups with your parrot every day. Some parrot behaviorists recommend “laddering” a bird if its being nipping. This involves making the parrot do several (6 or so) step ups in succession between your two hands. You can also try the “earthquake” method. Shake your arm or body when the parrot nips to distract it. Do not, however, cause the bird to fall.

Some books may recommend giving the parrot a time out in its cage. This often does not work because the parrot may forget why it’s in the cage by the time you’ve gotten it in there.


b) Parrot is Territorial.

Some parrots will guard their cages, play stands, or favorite person. It is often a good idea to teach such a parrot to step up on a stick. That way, you can remove a cage-guarding parrot from its cage without being bitten. Many birds become quite territorial during breeding season. Male Amazons are particularly prone to this because in the wild they are the ones who build and guard a nest.

c) Parrot Does Not Want to do Something.

The parrot is trying to control you. If you show fear and always back off, the parrot will become even more aggressive. Be sure to do step-up practice daily so you can better control the bird.

d) Redirected Aggression

This can be a problem with parrots on shoulders. If the bird sees a rival person come in, something annoys it, or it becomes startled by something, it may bite its owner. In this case, the bird may not mean to bite the owner, but rather it became aggressive and just bit the nearest target. If you let a bird on your shoulder, be sure it is trustworthy and that it always gets off when you tell it to.

e) Fear

Frightened parrots will generally try to flee from danger, but if they cannot, they will bite whatever is scaring them. Never punish a very shy, fearful parrot.

f) Parrot is Overstimulated

This is common in the very active parrots, such as Amazons, Cockatoos, Caiques, and Conures, although any bird may do this. During playtime, the bird may become very excited and then bite its owner because it’s not thinking straight. Let an overly excited parrot calm down before you pick it up to avoid bites.

Interpreting Parrot Behavior - Reading your bird’s body language

Reading your bird’s body language

a)      Tail.

i. Tail wagging.  Here, the tail wags back and forth very rapidly.  This is different from tail flaring (next item). Parrots often wag their tails after fluffing their feathers out as a greeting.  A parrot that rapidly flips its tail is most likely happy to see you.

This behavior also occurs after the parrot is finished with one activity and is about to begin another.  Generally, this is only seen in a content parrot. Many also do this just to rearrange their feathers. Many cockatoos also do this when they are about to eliminate.

                     ii. Tail flaring.  Here, the feathers on the tail fan out. Some parrots, like lineolated parakeets, will rapidly fan their tails in and out.  This indicates that the parrot is excited or agitated.  In some cases, this indicates that the bird could bite.  If the tail flare is combined with an erect posture, erect nape feathers, and pinpointing eyes, handling the bird would be very unwise. 

                     iii. Tail preening.  Parrots spent a lot of time preening to keep their feathers clean and in good shape.  A bird that is preening its tail is likely very comfortable in its surroundings.  Nervous parrots will not preen their tails or wing feathers because they cannot pay close attention to what’s going on around them while they are doing so. 

                     A parrot’s preen gland is located just above the tail. This is why parrots often rub their beaks on that spot while they are preening. They get some preen oil on their beaks and rub it on their feathers. Some Neotropical species, such as certain species of Amazons, Pionus, and Brotogeris lack the preen gland.  Pair bonded parrots often preen each other.

                     Parrots often preen their owners as well. If your parrot gently chews on your hair, beard, ear, or shirt, this is likely what it’s doing.  It means the parrot really likes you! This behavior is less common in parrot species that do not pair bond all year, such as ringnecks and Eclectus parrots.

                    

b)      Beak.

i.  Beak Grinding.  This is a normal behavior.  Parrots often grind their beaks when they are content or sleepy.  You are most likely to see this behavior at the parrot’s bedtime.  This behavior likely functions in keeping the beak trim and sharp.

ii.Beak Clicking.  Some cockatoos and cockatiels rub the tip of their top mandible over the bottom one.  This odd habit should not concern the owner.

                     iii. Beak Wiping.  Many parrots like to rub their beaks on their perches. This is to either get food off the beak or to keep the beak polished.

iv.  Regurgitation.  This is an indication of affection. A parrot that regurgitates food from its crop to its owner is one that regards its owner as its mate.  Mated birds often feed each other by regurgitating food into each other’s beaks.  In many parrots, it is only the male that regurgitates to the female. He does this to court her, and when she is on the nest incubating eggs and cannot gather her own food.  This is very uncommon in species where both parents take turns with incubating eggs, such as many white cockatoos.

Birds bob their heads rapidly before regurgitation.  Some birds will even regurgitate onto a favorite toy or mirror. 

v.  Panting. The bird is overheated, stressed, or tired after exercise.  If the bird is panting because it’s overheated, place the bird in a cooler area. If the bird is panting because it’s stressed, immediately place the bird somewhere it can relax. Parrots can dies of stress quite easily. 

vi. Biting.  The bird is frightened, or it’s guarding its territory, or it’s trying to control its owner. Baby parrots also use their beaks to explore things, and most parrots use their beaks to steady themselves while climbing or walking on a perch.

vii. Jousting.  Young parrots often play by sparring with their beaks, similar to the way dogs will jaw-spar.  However, if your parrots do this, make sure it’s just playing. Do not allow different sized birds to interact this way.

viii.  Feathers Over Beak.  Cockatoos have mobile feathers under their beaks and will fluff them over their beaks when they are relaxed and content where they are.

ix. Chewing.  Parrots chew more than normal during the breeding season because they are cavity breeders and often need to hollow out a tree stump to use as a nest.  They also chew for enjoyment. Parrots should be provided with plenty of chew toys.

c) Eyes.

         i. Flashing or Pinning.  This is only visible in parrots with light-eyes. 

If a parrot shrinks and enlarges its iris, it is excited, surprised, agitated or angry. You must consider the rest of the parrot’s behavior and the situation it’s in to determine how it’s feeling.  Many parrots (especially Amazons) pin their eyes when playing, vocalizing, eating a favorite or new food, or when angry.  If the eye pinning is combined with erect nape feathers and a flaring tail, the parrot may bite and should be left alone.

                     ii.  Eye Contact.  Direct eye contact can be frightening or threatening to a nervous or shy parrot, although well-socialized parrots do not mind this.  Parrots will often turn their heads to one side and stare at an object with one eye if they are very interested in it. 

                     iii.  Blinking.  Nervous birds often do not blink when looking at an object/human/animal that is making them nervous.

            d) Head

                     i.  Head bobbing.  Baby birds bob their heads when begging for food. Some adult birds will still do this to beg for food or attention, or then they are excited.  Very excited “displaying” cockatoos will bob and sway their heads while their crests are up. Depending on the cockatoo, it may not be wise to handle the bird while it is displaying. Some are more likely to bite when very excited. Cockatoos will often raise their crests when they are surprised, excited, interested in something, agitated or happy.

                     ii.  Chin-up.  Some birds to do this to indicate they’d like to be petted. Others who enjoy having their necks scratched will lower their heads to be petted. Finally, some birds will slowly scratch their heads with their foot to indicate they’d like to be petted.

                     iii. Nape Feathers Up: The bird is guarding its territory or is agitated. Do not handle the bird until it calms down, especially if the bird is also strutting and pinning its eyes.

      e) Feet.

                     i. Tapping.  Many male cockatoos do this.  This is a display of strength or dominance. Effectively, the bird is saying, “This perch here is mine!”  The bird may want the owner to back off, but this is often just a bluff.  Some cockatoos do this to get their owner’s attention.  Male black palm cockatoos, (a large black bird from northern Australia, New Guinea, and Indonesia) will often take a large stick and bang it on a tree to let other birds know that a certain nesting spot is taken.

      f) Wings.

                     i.  Stretching.  Birds often stretch the wing and the leg on the same side of the body at the same time.  Many do this to greet their owners and start a new activity.  Bonded parrots will do this in unison.

                     ii.  Flipping.  This refers to when the parrot slaps its wings against its body.  Baby parrots will flip their wings against their bodies when begging for food.  Adult parrots (especially Quakers) may do this to indicate they want food. If so, the body will be flattened out. If the body is erect, it is a sign that the parrot is annoyed, angry or frustrated. If this behavior is combined with eye pinning and tail flaring, do not touch the bird.  It probably does not want interaction.

      g) Body Posture.

                     i.  Body Flat, Wings Quivering: Begging behavior.

                     ii.  Tail up, Wings Quivering, Whining: In female parrots, this is an invitation to breed. Do not touch the bird.

                     iii.  Body up and Rigid, Head Up, Head Feathers Flared, Strutting: A territorial display or very agitated bird. Do not touch!

                     iv.  Quivering: The bird is cold or scared, or it is a Quaker seeking attention or treats.

                     v.  On Back, Beak Open, Eyes Pinning, Body Rigid:  This is a very frightened bird!  Lories and many Neotropical parrots do this when they are very terrified and are ready to fight.  Do not confuse this with play. Some parrots (especially many Caiques, Conures, and Poicephalus) like to play on their backs. In that case, the bird will clearly be more relaxed.

TAMING WILD BIRDS

Training (teaching a specific behavior) and taming (removing the fear of humans) of birds are important both for the birds' benefit and for improving their pet quality.
Handfed birds often do not require any taming since they are imprinted on humans. On the other hand wild caught birds may take weeks of work to become tame. Patience and positive reinforcement are the
crux of taming. The bird must be shown that there is nothing to fear from humans. Additionally they must learn that people are the source of food and social interaction.
Finger or hand training involves offering the finger or hand as a perch and rewarding the bird when it steps on. This is facilitated by rendering the bird flightless by clipping the wings. Parrots climb with the beak and it is infuriating to them when the hand offered to them is jerked back when they reach for it. If you are afraid of
being bit, get someone else to do the initial work with the bird. For large, aggressive hookbills, a stick or perch may be offered instead of a hand for obvious safety reasons.

An alternative taming technique is called towel taming. This involves restraining the bird with a towel in a normal perching position and scratching or "preening" the bird's head feathers until they settle down
and eventually begin to enjoy the petting sessions. These sessions should always be short and should leave the bird wanting more. If the bird does not settle down within 3-5 minutes should be ended and tried
again later.
Both finger training and towel taming should be used and should be done away from the security of the bird's cage. This makes the bird look to the trainer for security. The combination of finger training and towel taming will result in a bird that will come to the owner and enjoy the attention and petting that it gets.

Parrot DOMINANCE

Like dogs, parrots are social animals. In the wild these birds live in groups and establish social hierarchies
(pecking orders). In the wild, the most dominant bird has greatest access to resources. In captivity, birds
need the guidance of their human hosts to adapt to the home environment. Dominant individuals will not
accept this guidance and therefore can become very unhappy and very unruly pets. Larger species of bird
are more likely to develop dominance problems, but  even lovebirds can get an "attitude" at times. In order
to avoid problems, several measures can be taken. First, all birds should be taught the "up" command
and the "down" command (stepping onto or off of the hand, respectively). Second, birds should be kept at chest height or lower for greater control. Height gives a dominant bird greater confidence.
Finally, the owner should accustom the bird to various types of handling, such as laying a towel on
the back, handling the beak, flightless by clipping the the session

HOUSEBREAKING

Many birds can be "housebroken".
The principles of housebreaking a dog apply here but most birds have to "go" much more frequently. For most birds it will be at 10-30 minute intervals (shorter for smaller birds). Watch the bird to get an idea about the frequency. Select a place where droppings are allowed. The bird is not held or played with until he passes a dropping. A verbal command can be used (this is controversial). The bird is rewarded by giving him attention. Just before another dropping is due, the bird is put back on the selected area until a dropping is produced. Again success is rewarded by attention. This process is repeated whenever the bird is handled. The bird will eventually learn to go to the selected area. Care should be taken that the bird does not hold its droppings for extended periods as this may lead to medical problems in the urinary or intestinal tracts.

Teaching birds to talk

Teaching birds to talk simply involves talking to them. Start with short easy phrases and short frequent sessions. As the bird gains vocabulary they learn easier. Many birds can learn word associations or even more complex language skills. By using phrases in appropriate situations, birds will maintain more interest and also will learn to
use them appropriately as well. Species selection is important since certain species are inherently better talkers, such as mynahs, African greys, Amazon parrots, and lories. Some cockatiels are very accomplished whistlers.

PARROT BEHAVIOR

In our efforts to protect birds from infectious diseases, drafts, and other environmental factors, it is easy to put our birds into plastic bubbles. To sentence the bird to spend its entire life in a single room is not fair.
They are intelligent, sensitive animals that deserve better.
Have fun with them and they'll have more fun too.
It is advisable to have more than one area where the bird spends time. Get an extra cage for a different part of the house.
Alternatively, a T-stand will suffice. If your employer allows, take the bird to work.
Birds make excellent greeters for businesses and many customers get to know them well.
Of course be careful that the bird is kept where he/she cannot get into trouble or nip customers fingers! Take your bird for car rides. Many of them really love it.
Bring them into the shower with you (there are perches made for the purpose).
The enjoyment you get from your parrots depends on how much
you are willing to put into socializing them. Have fun and you and your parrot will both be happier.

Becoming A Parrot Behavior Consultant

Parrot behavior consultants try to teach people how to deal with the problem behaviors
that they encounter in their parrots, educating these owners about the normal behaviors and motivations of these intelligent and complex creatures in their care. We do this one-on-one through house calls and phone consultations, or with large groups through lectures, seminars and publications.
There is no actual program, that I know of, that gives you all the training you need to become a parrot behavior consultant. However, a variety of approaches might help you find the knowledge you seek.
Knowledge is Power I would suggest that you read every book and magazine you can find that contains information on parrot behavior. Also, attend parrot conferences and lectures whenever possible. You will see advertisements for them in the back of this magazine, and will be able to tell via name recognition when a parrot behavior consultant is lecturing somewhere near you. Also, there are college-based community and online courses that teach some fundamentals such as learning theory, a general understanding of animal behavior and interviewing techniques. In my opinion, the best news regarding becoming a parrot behavior consultant is the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC). The IAABC was founded in 2003 by a Pittsburgh family therapist and dog behavior expert Lynn Hoover, and it offers continuing education, resources, ethics and practical guidelines and certification to experienced
practitioners and trainees in the cat, dog, parrot and horse behavior fields.
As Ms. Hoover said: “The IAABC is dedicated to helping interested applicants develop the knowledge, skill and ethics base they need to help families with parrots. We trust that when parrot owners are able to find qualified help in their communities, they will seek help rather than inappropriately punish or abandon their parrots with issues.” The parrot division of the IAABC is quite new, but we are working on setting up training programs, mentoring and tutorials for those who are interested in learning how to become professional companion parrot behavior consultants. We have already provided certification for parrot behavior consultants who are experienced enough to be grandfathered in. Anyone who is truly interested in starting the process of becoming trained (and hopefully certified) as a parrot behavior consultant should contact the IAABC about what you might need to do to become accepted as an associate member.
An important piece of advice regarding becoming a parrot behavior consultant is: Don’t quit your day job. Few people are working full time as professional parrot behavior consultants, because the field is not yet lucrative enough for most of us to “make a living” at it. That said, this does not mean you cannot learn to help people learn to live happily with their pet parrots – just don’t bet your mortgage on generating enough income to be able to support yourself on it.

Parrot intelligence

Parrots are not counted as having nonhuman intelligence. There is some data about  psittacids are among the more intelligent animal species. During the 1950, for example,some scirntists from England  http://tararadam.com/England  demonstrated that Grey parrots can be tought to some communicative skills . 
There is a story about a doctor who had a gray parrot. Doctor  has tought the parrot when someone is outside the door, to say: "Open the door and call the doctor". But the parrot often reverses the order, and shouts out: "Open the doctor and call the door".  http://tararadam.com/alarmsystem_portal

Good Bird Breeders in Michigan

Feathered Babies
Address
Taylor, MI 48180
1-313-310-5328
Shipping
They Are Home breeders of  Pacific Parrot, Love birds, Sun Conures, Quaker and yellow collared macaws

Sunshine's Aviary
No Shipping
Midland, MI 48642
989-600-1095

This is a bird breeder of American Singers and color canaries.



More Breeders:
*At Feathers End Aviary
Eaton Rapids, MI 48827
517-646-7064

*Michigan Parrots
Dearborn Heights, MI 48127
313-3841911

*Frank and Denise Bird Breeders
WATERFORD, MI 48327
email: ourbirds@comcast.net

*LittleWings Aviary
12747 Onondaga Road
Onondaga, MI 49264
517-569-3377

*Parrots Of  Michigan
Rockford, MI 49341
616-918-3738


*A Dreamers Loft
Saginaw, MI 48604
989-860-9060


*SweetGreys
Port Huron, MI 48074
810-531-6207

Parrot Breeders in Canada

• The Budgerigar and Foreign Bird Society of Canada, Inc. Deirdre Graham, 2901 Bayview Avenue, Box 91076, Toronto, ON M2K 2Y6; webmaster@bfbsbirdclub.org; www.bfbsbirdclub.org.
• The Calgary Parrot Club. P.O. Box 20100, Bowvalley Postal Outlet, Calgary, Alberta, T2P 4H3 Canada; (403) 241-2249 or info@calgaryparrotclub.comwebmaster@bfbsbirdclub.org.
• CVUICBC. #52-650 (S) Terminal Ave. Nanaimo, BC, Canada V9R 5E2; birdclub@home.com; billinda@telus.net;http://members.com.net/birdclub.
• Edmonton Pet Parrot Assn. c/o #2204, 1154 Hooke Rd. Alberta T5A 4A4; (780) 473-3482 or bryksen@telusplanet.net.
• Essex-Kent Cage Bird Society. Julianne Mion, show sec./ed., 1619 Pillette Rd., Windsor, Ontario N8Y 3C4; (519) 948-6398; julianne@mnsi.net.
• The Golden Triangle Parrot Club. P.O. Box 1574, Station C, Kitchener, ON, Canada N2G 4P2; http://www.guelphonline.com/go-city/parrotclub/gtparrot.htm
• New Market Parrot Association. 16195 Bayview Ave, ON, Canada; Jesse, Pres. (905) 853-0500; bird_whisper@sympatico.ca.
• The Ontario Parrot Owners Association. www.parrotsontario.com.
• Ottawa Parrot Club. 142-1411A Carling Ave., Ottawa ON K1Z 1A7, Canada; fax (613) 728-5353; parrots@ottawaparrotclub.org, http://www.ottawaparrotclub.org.
• The Parrot Club Of Manitoba. P.O. Box 68020 RPO Osborne Village Winnipeg, MB R3L 2V9; ParrotClub@aol.com; www.parrotclubofman.ca/.
• The Parrot Club Of Southwestern Ontario. (519) 633-1813; the_parrot_club@hotmail.com; www.geocities.com\the_parrot_club; London, Ontario, Canada.
• Southern Alberta Cage Bird Society. Al Dahl; (403) 236-9598; www.sacbs.ca
• St. Catherines Bird Club. 33 Blair Crescent, St. Catherine, Ontario L2P 2A9; Carol Horvat (905) 687-8562.

BEAUTIFUL BRIGHT YELLOW RED HEAD LOVE BIRD

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Location: OC/LA

Large Parrot Cage - $50 - for Sale

For Sale from Craigslist 19-07-2010: Large parrot/bird cage. It is in very good condition. Works well for  cockatiels too. Tray is removable for easy cleaning. Water and food dishes are included.

Price: $50.00 obo. /Cash Only/

Phone: 503-385-6366

Location: NE Salem

LIKE NEW BEAUTIFUL BIRD CAGE WITH ACCESSORIES (WINTER GARDEN)

For sale from craigslist - 26/07/2010:BEAUTIFUL BIRD CAGE FOR $30
Phone: 321 960 8274

Location: WINTER GARDEN / Orlando

For sale from Atlanta: Bird Cage and a bag of bird food for $20

Bird cage full of toys. In good condition.
The cage is good for parakeets, conures, and small to medium-sized birds.

Call 404 944 0115.

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* Location: Marietta / Smyrna