Styrofoam incubator - Avoid Power-Outage Deaths

Where would I purchase one of those computer backup batteries for my small Styrofoam incubator? 

Do they work well? For how long will they run a brooder? 

 
The electric current can go out for many reasons, such as lightning storms, hot weather and power outages from accidents or fallen trees. There is even talk that this year, during the hot months, the electric companies are going to do perform temporary controlled blackouts in several cities throughout the United States without warning. This can kill eggs and very young baby birds in incubators and brooders!

I use a computer backup battery, which can be purchased at almost any computer-type electronic store or large office supply store, such as Best Buy, Circuit City, Good Guys, Office Max or Office Depot. These stores usually carry backup batteries in several different sizes and prices. The more powerful the batteries are and the longer they run, the more money they cost. You can also buy them from online stores like MacMall and even direct from the company. Their 

I have simple batteries, which are smaller and cost under $150 each, connected to a few of my brooders and incubators. These little power units have run my brooders for more than four hours when the power failed, and I must say they kept the temperature just right, and the brooder and incubator were not harmed in any way. The batteries also have an alarm that beeps when the power goes out. This has awakened and alerted us that the power was out. The unit continues to beep as long as it works without electricity. I found these units to be very reliable tools for raising birds. As soon as the power comes back on, the unit changes back to the regular electric current, and starts to recharge the internal battery system. My first unit is still running, and it is more than four years old. If I leave my home for a few hours, I know that all the babies are safe if the power goes out, because those backup batteries turn on automatically and keep the chicks warm until I get home.

Coaxing Pairs To Breed
I breed sun, peach-fronted and green-cheeked conures. Recently, I purchased a pair of brown-throated conures and a pair of Senegal parrots. Neither of these new pairs will enter their nest boxes. It has been a month since their acquisition, but nothing seems to be happening. I am mostly interested in the brown throats, because it is very difficult to find information on them. The Senegals and brown throats came with the same box they nested in before. The brown throats had a very small box. I gave them a new box, grandfather clock style. They do not even perch on the entrance at night, whereas the Senegals perch on the entrance hole and the male peers into it periodically. The male Senegal has a bare head down to the neck. The hen is feather picking him a lot. He bends and enjoys her mutilation. There is no sign of breeding from those two, but they are doing plenty of picking. The hen has one perch chewed almost to kindling. As for the brown throats (that I've become quite fond of), they do not seem to chew or look at the box at all. I read that they excavate termite mounds for their nest in the wild and that it is recommended to use cork inside the box for their chewing pleasure, but I think this is bizarre. Any suggestions to entice these two pairs to do some breeding would be appreciated.

First of all, you have not had the pairs long enough for them to be ready to nest. Even though some birds will go to nest immediately after a move, many need to settle in and wait a few months or longer. With your brown-throated conures, I would do things a bit differently than you have. If, indeed, they are a true breeding pair, I would not change the nest box provided with them. I would set the birds up with what they are accustomed to. You did not give me the dimensions of the nest boxes, but what you think is too small may be just perfect for that pair. Many of my bigger conures, such as Patagonian, blue-crowned and cherry-headed conures, will only nest in small cockatiel nest boxes. I even saw a pair of nandays producing babies in a nest box not much bigger than a parakeet nest box. Just think, in the wild they would use small quarters, because that would be all they could find; not these big "apartment" sized holes. I do not use grandfather clock style boxes for any of my smaller conures. I have found them to be too large for the pairs. My pairs prefer smaller boxes. And, I do use cork inside some of my conure nest boxes. The birds really seem to enjoy chewing it up, and, it keeps them busy. So, if your pair of conures do not nest in the next few months, why not try their original box and see if they like that better?

As for the Senegal parrots, they can be a bit trickier to get to nest. Many Senegal parrots are really seasonal and will only breed late winter into spring. Many Senegal parrots also need more time to adjust to their new surroundings, whereas conures seem to settle in much more quickly. Some Senegal parrots will not even use their nest box off-season.

As for the hen's mutilation of the male, I have seen this at times. If it becomes too much, you can separate the pair for a month or two and then return them together in hope that they will just stop this bad habit. Sometimes this works. But it sounds like the male is not bothered by her over-grooming him. Sometimes the feather follicles can become so damaged that the feathers may never grow back. This does not hurt the bird at all, it just looks different. It sounds like the pair likes one another. So with this pair, I think they need much more time before you worry about them nesting. See what happens with them in winter or spring, and let them get used to their new home.

Aviary Maintenance

Keeping your aviary clean of debris and food-refuse is incredibly important to a successful aviary. It is far easier to do it regularly rather than try to play catch-up. For example, when was the last time you checked the fasteners on your nest boxes? When most parrots see a shiny wire, bolt head or screw, they begin to pick at it, twisting and chewing away the surrounding wood. I have seen African greys unfasten rather impressive bolts that have washers and nuts. You need to check all your nest boxes to ensure that the wood or fastener isn't going to give way soon. In regards to nest boxes, your best breeders are usually the best wood chewers as well. I know a breeder who lost a cockatoo hen that made him more than $10,000 a year from her unbelievable production. She chewed through the nest box, and he never noticed the growing hole, until his wonderful hen was sitting in a tree. He never caught her.

Nest Box/Cage Maintenance

Check the nest boxes by running your hand over the outsides and looking for holes inside and out. Remember, a small hole on the outside might indicate that a large amount of wood has been eaten on the inside, and the bird is ready to burst through. So, don't ignore the small holes. If there is a hole all the way through the wood, it is best to replace the nest box. Also, change the bedding if you haven't done so already.

Double-check your nest box-to-cage connections as well. Put some weight on them, because a strong wind might stress the connections. If you use tie strips, replace them. Tie strips break down if they are exposed to ultraviolet sunlight. Even though those tie strips might look fine now, given a month in the summer sun, they could give out.

Another rarely considered point of possible escape is from the use of J-clips. Some J-clips can rust or corrode even on cages that are less than 10 years old. Inspect each cage and pull on the cage wire, checking to see if the J-clips give or whether they are still good. If I notice any stress or rust on the clips, I fasten another clip right beside the worn clip. We lost one of our favorite babies that squeezed between the wire where two J-clips had rusted out. After it escaped, it took us several days to figure out how it had gotten out of the cage. The wire had formed itself back together, giving the appearance of structural integrity. That is why I strongly recommend physically pulling on the wire connections in separate directions so that you can see if the wire pulls apart.

Check your perches. If perches are chewed significantly and are unstable, birds will not breed. Obtain new perches and make sure they are affixed to the side tightly. If your birds quickly chew through 2- by 4-inch perches, consider the 2- by 6-inch size. I prefer fir; however, whatever you use, don't use treated wood. Go to the lumberyard and buy fresh. Don't pick up tree branches or lumber that you don't know the origins of.

I find many people just pile their old cages and refuse within the aviary. Throw old goods away. If you have cages you aren't going to use, then stack them neatly and as far away from your birds as possible. Piles of cages, with grass and weeds growing in them, make ideal residences for snakes. Get them away from your birds. If you have old pans or dishes, turn them over so they don't accumulate water. Otherwise, the stagnant water becomes a nesting ground for mosquitoes.

Food And Debris

Food or feces pile-ups should be turned over with a spade, covered up or removed. They attract disease-carrying rodents, flies and vermin. If you live in the city, allowing dung to build up will bring the health department down on you; likewise if you are in the country, it will invite predators.

Aviary maintenance isn't fun, and it is one of those things that quickly falls by the wayside when we get busy. But it is best to keep up with it, because the cost of letting your aviary go is lost birds.

The Laughing Dove

Laughing dove facts

The laughing dove (Streptopelia senegalensis), commonly called the palm or Senegal dove, is common in aviaries throughout the United States and Canada. It shares a kinship with the common domestic ringneck dove (S. capicola) and many other similar doves.

The laughing dove is primarily a bird of both arid regions and woodlands in its native Africa. It has adapted well to living with humans and is abundant around farms, villages and cities. Laughing doves can be seen feeding alongside their larger cousins, feral rock pigeons (Columba livia). This species is found throughout Africa and the Middle East and is introduced and thriving in western Australia.

This beautiful dove is a bit smaller than a common domestic ringnecked dove. It differs from most of the other Streptopelia species because it lacks the black half-ring around its neck. Instead of a half-ring, the laughing dove has a patch of specialized plumage on the breast. The tiny jewel-like, bifurcated feathers have glossy rust-red tips and black centers. This dove looks as if it is wearing a jeweled necklace that vanishes and reappears in the sunlight. Both sexes have this exquisite "necklace."

The adult male has a pinkish head and neck, which shades to a pale gray on the back and upper tail coverts. The wings are a very rich reddish chestnut brown. The primary flights are burnt umber, the tail is gray with black and some white halves on the feathers. The belly is gray, which shades to nearly pure white on the undertail coverts. The adult female is colored very much like the adult male. Sexes are difficult to visually distinguish, although the males tend to be a bit larger and brighter. The laughing dove is the smallest member of the genus Streptopelia in Africa and, undoubtedly, the most handsome.

The bill in both sexes is black. The eyes are dark umber or black. The feet are a deep reddish-purple. Natural mutations are common in this species. Pied laughing doves are regularly seen. Pied birds can have a few white feathers around the head and neck or be nearly 50 percent white. No two pieds are alike. I have a male laughing dove that is nearly 75 percent white. Others are mostly 20 percent white. Pied laughing doves are especially attractive if the white feathers are scattered over the bird's entire body. The normal or wild-type color is, however, dominant. I suspect that birds that were pecked or lose feathers unnaturally when young are more susceptible to having feathers regrow white. This condition is common in other species of doves and even exists in domestic pigeons.

The most distinguishing characteristic of this species is the voice. Watch any nature show about Africa, and the soft, melodious cooing is that of the laughing dove. The coo is pitched and uttered in phrases of four to eight notes, each enduring about a second. The call is difficult to describe. It is very soft, almost has a nasal quality and is pleasant to the human ear. The "laugh" is uttered after mating. Loud wing clapping often occurs as the bird flies.

In the wild, this dove eats a variety of seeds, grains and small insects, as well as fruits. In captivity, laughing doves thrive on a high quality finch mix. I also like to provide some soft food as well. Occasionally, the birds dine on steamed rice and vegetables, raw grated carrots and broccoli.

Laughing dove breeding 

Laughing doves breed well under most conditions. They are monogamous, pairing for life. The courtship is similar to other species in this genus, particularly to the European turtle dove (S. turtur). The normal clutch is two creamy-white eggs. Laying generally occurs in the morning, and incubation begins when the first egg is laid. Both parents incubate and are very attentive. Hatching occurs on the 13th or 14th day of incubation. The newly hatched squabs have nearly black skin covered with yellow down. The squabs grow quickly on "pigeon milk," a thick yellowish substance made in the crops of both parents. The young fledge soon after the 12th or 13th day after hatching. The parents still continue to feed them for an additional three or four days. 

Housing laughing doves is relatively easy. Provide a draft-free, dry shelter with lots of sunshine, and the doves will do well. They can be acclimated to stay outdoors all year round. A well-insulated aviary will do just fine. Laughing doves can tolerate below-freezing temperatures for short periods of time. Because this species is from Africa, it withstands high temperatures when shade is provided. They are as hardy as domestic ringnecked doves.

This species is hardy, affordable and available from local breeders. The laughing dove is a nonaggressive species and will not harm other small avian species. The genus Streptopelia is an excellent choice for the novice as well as the seasoned dove collector.

Several years ago, a subspecies of smaller laughing doves became available. They are exactly like their counterparts, only nearly one-third smaller. The small birds are harder to find and a bit brighter than their larger kin. I bought several pairs that were recent imports. They were much redder than my current stock. Laughing doves are one of my favorites in the Streptopelia genus.

Note:
Unmated laughing doves should not be kept with domestic ringnecked doves or doves belonging to the genus Streptopelia. They will readily interbreed with them. Hybrids are usually infertile, although in some instances, males may be fertile. I personally do not recommend hybrid breeding.

Raising Green-cheeked Conures

Q: I just bought a proven pair of green-cheeked conures for breeding. I have received different advice from several people. The person I bought my birds from used a cockatiel nest box, and I've been told they won't breed if I use that box. Some people told me to use a metal box. I also received different information on diet. Some said seed, some said nothing except pellets, some said mix pellets and seed, and one person told me I have to feed breeding birds high-protein pellets and nothing else. Another said conures can't have high protein. How should I take care of these green-cheeked conures?

 
People are unique, and they do things in dissimilar ways. Bird breeders are no exception. You can talk to 10 different breeders on the same subject and get 10 different answers. The 10 different answers you receive could be all right, all wrong or a mix of right and wrong answers. Bird breeders tend to do things differently from each other even if they are working with the same species. It can be confusing and frustrating because what works for one person may or may not work for you.

Concerns For New Arrivals

The green-cheeked conures (Pyrrhura molinae) you purchased were a proven pair. If the people you purchased them from had bred them successfully in a cockatiel nest box, I suggest that you duplicate that box as closely as possible. Because this is the type of box this pair has successfully raised young in, it is obviously the type of box they are happy with. It does not mean that they will not successfully raise young in a nest box with a different style, shape or material.

However, if you know something works, why would you want to change it? The cockatiel nest box style and shape is not dangerous for the birds, so I recommend staying with what you know works. Using the same size and style of cage and nest box and not drastically changing the birds' diet can make the transition much easier for the new pair and cause minimal disruption in the breeding cycle. Try to keep the length of day close to what they had at their previous home as well. I also recommend starting them off on the same feeding schedule and slowly adjusting the feeding schedule to your own schedule.

All newly purchased birds and any birds that left your facility and returned (such as from a sale or show) should be quarantined. During this quarantine period, the new birds should be watched carefully to see that they are adjusting well to their new home. Any and all testing should be done during this period. Discuss testing with your vet, as well as the recommended length of quarantine. Set a specific quarantine length for all birds arriving at your facility. My quarantine period is a minimum of 90 days, and I am fortunate to be able to quarantine off-site. Many times length varied from six months or longer before I brought them into my flock. Currently, I do not plan to add any new birds to my flock, but if I did for some reason, I would still follow the outlined period and quarantine off-site.

Much of the adjustment the new birds need to make occurs during the quarantine period and in the area you designate for that purpose. Housing the green cheeks in a separate area from the birds you currently own makes it easy to adjust schedules without disturbing the routine of your other birds. You may slowly adjust the new birds' daylight to fit into that of your own flock. Major changes should not be made at once. Likewise, drastically modifying a diet can cause an extremely poor breeding season. Parents may not feed chicks or go to nest that season. Similar results can be expected regarding changes to the length of day.

When you feel you want or must change the type of nest box your birds have been accustomed to using, supply the pair with both their old box and a new box. This gives the pair the ability to choose. If they refuse entry into the new box and use their original one, I would rethink the reasoning behind the nest box change.

Feeding Hints

Diet dos and don'ts have been controversial for the 30-plus years I have been breeding birds. I've been told and have read that the controversy existed long before, and I have no doubt it will continue for years to come. On the basis of marketing alone, every company says it "has the best," claims "nothing can compare," and "all diets are researched and tested." Products for birds are really not any different than the products we buy for our own everyday use. Individuals prefer different brands, types, flavors, colors and so on. I don't think we will ever see the day when a company states that its product isn't any better or different than another. 

At this time, regardless of the diet your green-cheeked conures have been fed, I recommend that you duplicate the diet they were on before you got them. If it is a diet that you are comfortable with and there are no dangers to your birds, I would continue with that diet. If it is a diet that is nonvaried, add veggies and greens. It would be a good idea to question the prior owners about any special foods given to the pair during breeding season and when they were feeding their young. Most importantly, make the same foods available to the pair that they have had in the past when they are feeding chicks. Diet is another area you may want to speak to your vet about. Veterinarians sometimes see trends in diet-related problems.

Not all breeders of conures will agree whether to change the level of protein fed during breeding season. I know breeders who had major problems with feeding high-protein diets to their breeding conures. I also know breeders who have fed, and still feed, high-protein diets to conure breeder birds with no apparent effect. I can only guess why results vary. The levels of protein in the diets and brands may be different. There could be other factors involved as well.

The only aspect of diet that just about everyone agrees on is that an all-seed diet (one that does not contain any type of food other than seed) is not a good diet and should not be given to the birds. Other than that, the field is open when it comes to what we should and should not do. I prefer to feed a varied diet, which is kept as natural as possible, to my flock. A large garden is maintained for them, and the produce is frozen and dried when I cannot feed it fresh. Each bird is an individual and, within reason, is treated as one. Pairs prefer different foods to feed their young, and I do my best to provide them with a never-ending supply of those foods when they are feeding chicks.

By reproducing the environment your green-cheeked conures were used to as much as possible, with regard to caging, nest box, lighting and diet, you should be successful in having them reproduce for you. Best of luck.

The Socialization Of Baby Birds

During the past few years, a conversation has developed between pet bird owners and bird breeders regarding the socialization of baby birds, which can be characterized as contentious and divisive. When a pet bird owner believes that his/her bird has a behavior problem, the owner seeks to find a solution and reason for the problem. Sometimes the owner blames the bird breeder for some supposed failure in the rearing process, which may have produced this problematic bird. 

Baby birds are generally hatched and raised by bird breeders, sometimes in nurseries at small backyard facilities and sometimes at large breeding farms. Bird breeders may sell the birds at an early age, prior to or during weaning, to pet stores or brokers, and sometimes directly to the pet owners. When baby birds are sold prior to or near weaning, the major socialization that has occurred involves interacting with clutch mates or other baby birds in the brooder or baby cages, interacting with the hand-feeder while being handled or fed and perhaps learning the "Up" command from the hand-feeder. Thus, the bird has the opportunity to learn that humans are okay, because they provide food and comfort. Further, the bird learns to feel at ease with other birds in the brooder or cage. Most parrots learn the "Up" command quickly, even when their physical skills are not developed sufficiently for them to easily comply with the intent.

Baby birds that are sold to brokers and pet stores will continue to learn about people and other birds in this new environment. They may learn that many people stick fingers at them through cage bars. They may learn that there is a great variety of people to deal with, not all of them treating the birds with gentleness and respect. They may learn that they have to fit into cages with other strange birds. They may learn that not everyone who handles them knows how to do it smoothly. All of these new events, people, places, diets and routines can be confusing and stressful to baby birds, no matter how wonderfully they have been raised and cared-for by the bird breeder. All of these experiences in the pet store or at the bird brokers are part of the socialization of each baby bird.

When a pet store specializes in birds, the owner or manager carefully trains the employees in the care and handling of baby birds, and the store's protocols include guiding the bird-buying public in the proper care and handling of the baby birds in the store. Then, the bird receives positive socialization and feels comfortable and secure. The best bird stores educate their employees and demand that excellent care be given to the baby birds. The best bird stores teach their clients about the care of the bird that the client purchases. They provide this education through the use of direct demonstrations of handling, through written information about the specific species being purchased and through recommendation of a good veterinarian. This process takes time and effort, but the end result is a happy bird and a happy owner.

Bird breeders who sell directly to the public often provide their clients with a lot of species-specific information on the bird being purchased. The bird breeder who sells to the public may also keep the baby birds well past weaning. The young birds have the opportunity to learn about a variety of foods, how to play with toys and other birds, to maneuver in bird cages, to fly and land with skill and to respond to commands such as "Up" and "Perch." During this period, they also develop confidence and are ready to go home with their new owner. This is the period of post-weaning stabilization, which generally occurs following the month that the baby bird has weaned from formula feedings.

Bird breeders who work large facilities simply do not have the time, the employees or the cage space to put all their birds through this process for a month after weaning. If they did, it would greatly increase the price of the bird because costs would increase. Some species would not be recommended to remain with the breeder during this time. These species make the transition much more easily at an earlier age. However, that is not to say that the management and staff of the breeding farms are giving the birds less than excellent care if they fail to put the birds through the stabilization process. Large farms must have good disease prevention practices and must do everything possible to raise healthy, happy babies. Their livelihood depends on producing an excellent product that will result in repeat business the following year. They cannot afford to produce babies that do not satisfy their market or they will go out of business. Large bird farms employ the services of avian veterinarians to provide guidance on medical issues and also employ sufficient manpower to take care of the daily work.

Now, let's go back to the issue of socialization of baby birds. Birds go through a series of stages of socialization, not just one stage, while being hand-fed. These stages of socialization continue to occur after the bird leaves the bird breeder, goes to a pet store or to the new owner. In fact, various periods of socialization will occur over the next five or six years, until the bird reaches maturity. Although most of the larger parrots can be reproductively viable at under 5 or 6 years of age, most are not really mature until then. Smaller parrots mature earlier. So, all these discussions about "proper" socialization of birds may be best addressed to the pet owner — the one who will be with the bird during these periods of socialization.

Part of the problem is that some pet owners just want to love and enjoy their bird, not provide direction to it (as if the bird should come in a "ready-to-use" package). The pet owner is emotionally attached to the bird, but he or she may have little or no realization that the young bird has a serious need for guidance as it develops over the coming months and years. The pet owner may have little knowledge of the specific species of bird and its natural characteristics. In fact, the pet owner may have little understanding of birds in general. As Gail Worth recently commented, "Pet owners often think that birds are like dogs. They want the bird to change a behavior that they do not like, but the behavior is natural to the bird." There seems to be an inclination among many pet bird owners to have a preconceived notion of what the bird should be and do. When difficulties arise, it is easier to blame someone than to recognize the true problem, which is a lack of basic knowledge about bird behavior and, specifically, a lack of information about the species of bird they have. Bird breeders, bird stores, bird behavior consultants and pet bird owners need to recognize the situation: Simply put, young birds continue to need guidance, and it is nobody's fault. Birds need guidance through their various periods of socialization for several years in order to become healthy, happy adult companion birds.

Cockatiel Disease

Q: I am a veterinary technician in Hawaii, and the available diagnostics for avian medicine are not what we were used to on the mainland. An aviary of cockatiels is dying of sudden respiratory distress. They are housed in outdoor flights and have a relatively good diet consisting of seeds, pellets, fruits, vegetables and clean water.
We have seen some white blood cell counts and they are relatively unremarkable except for a shift in the heterophil/lymphocyte ratio. We have done some Chlamydia testing through the state lab and results are all negative so far. Necropsies have revealed nothing that the state lab or our doctor can put their finger on. Any ideas about where to go next or what to do?
 

A: I love challenges, and it sounds like we have one here. I want a blood smear if you can send me one, and one should go to a good avian pathology lab like University of Georgia. There must be many blood-borne parasites there, such as Leucocytozooan and Hemoproteus. These require an insect vector, such as a mosquito, and I am sure you have plenty of those.

I also wonder about Sarcocytosis, a protozoal parasite that infects the lungs and muscle and can cause sudden death. Here, the disease is seen mostly in the southern states, although I have diagnosed it as far north as middle Indiana. It can be hard to see on histopath slides, and I have often had to seek two or three pathologists' opinions to get a correct answer. Sarcocystosis has a complicated life cycle involving a mammal, such as an opossum, an insect vector, such as a cockroach and often another host, such as a blackbird or grackle, as a reservoir host. I am not sure what fulfills the part of the opossum there, but I wonder if the mongoose plays a similar role.

Do an in-depth history with the owner, and find out what creatures frequent the outdoor aviary and surroundings. Are the birds on dirt, or is there a wire floor? Have you done fecal floats? You may find parasites causing hypoproteinemia. When protein gets low enough, there could be pulmonary edema or pleural effusion (fluid on the lungs).

With the next carcass presented, do a detailed necropsy and formalin fix on all tissues, and freeze a second battery of samples. If the histopath is not answering the questions, viral isolation can be attempted.

Chlamydia psittaci in birds

Overnight avian chlamydiosis Infection?

Q: I recently purchased a pair of sun conures, delivered by the breeder to my home. The hen had an abrasion on her left leg, which has a band on it. The seller stated that this injury occurred during their drive to our home. I took the bird to our veterinarian the next day and had her checked out. It turns out the bird has a 36,000 white blood cell count and is anemic with a red blood cell of 32 percent. Could this injury have caused this elevation of white blood cells in such a short period of time? And could the anemia have been caused by the same injury?

A: It is very doubtful, in my opinion, that the leg abrasion could have become infected and mounted the type of immune response you describe in just a 24-hour period. This process is usually longer in nature and is associated with a chronic (long-standing) infectious disease. The fact that the bird also has anemia speaks to the probability that this was a long-standing disease process.
You have not listed the differential white blood cell count, so I cannot make further statements about the nature of the infection. Also, Gram's stain and cytology results would help with a diagnosis.
Bacterial and Chlamydial disease are the most common causes of this type of blood picture. Klebsiella bacterial infection often elevates the white count to these ranges and is commonly a cause of anemia.
Chlamydia psittaci is the cause of psittacosis and is very common in our captive-bred psittacines. Chlamydia may well be the problem in this case and should be treated appropriately with doxycycline, once you have the definitive diagnosis. I use the three-part Chlamydia test from the University of Georgia, which tests for 1) antibody, 2) Chlamydial DNA in white blood cells and 3) Chlamydial DNA being shed in fecal samples.
Chlamydia can cause infection in many organs. Liver infection is common, and liver enlargement (hepatomegaly) can often be seen on radiographs. Spleen enlargement is also a classic sign of chlamydiosis and can be appreciated on radiographs as well. Liver enzymes are often elevated on biochemical blood tests.
I hope your pair does well and you find a simple solution to the problem. It sounds like some more good veterinary work is required.

Pet Bird Sitters in Florida

Over 18 years experienced Bird (Parrot) Sitter in Cape Coral/Ft Myers

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