Like dogs, parrots are social animals. In the wild these birds live in groups and establish social hierarchies
(pecking orders). In the wild, the most dominant bird has greatest access to resources. In captivity, birds
need the guidance of their human hosts to adapt to the home environment. Dominant individuals will not
accept this guidance and therefore can become very unhappy and very unruly pets. Larger species of bird
are more likely to develop dominance problems, but even lovebirds can get an "attitude" at times. In order
to avoid problems, several measures can be taken. First, all birds should be taught the "up" command
and the "down" command (stepping onto or off of the hand, respectively). Second, birds should be kept at chest height or lower for greater control. Height gives a dominant bird greater confidence.
Finally, the owner should accustom the bird to various types of handling, such as laying a towel on
the back, handling the beak, flightless by clipping the the session
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Thursday, 14 October 2010
HOUSEBREAKING
Many birds can be "housebroken".
The principles of housebreaking a dog apply here but most birds have to "go" much more frequently. For most birds it will be at 10-30 minute intervals (shorter for smaller birds). Watch the bird to get an idea about the frequency. Select a place where droppings are allowed. The bird is not held or played with until he passes a dropping. A verbal command can be used (this is controversial). The bird is rewarded by giving him attention. Just before another dropping is due, the bird is put back on the selected area until a dropping is produced. Again success is rewarded by attention. This process is repeated whenever the bird is handled. The bird will eventually learn to go to the selected area. Care should be taken that the bird does not hold its droppings for extended periods as this may lead to medical problems in the urinary or intestinal tracts.
The principles of housebreaking a dog apply here but most birds have to "go" much more frequently. For most birds it will be at 10-30 minute intervals (shorter for smaller birds). Watch the bird to get an idea about the frequency. Select a place where droppings are allowed. The bird is not held or played with until he passes a dropping. A verbal command can be used (this is controversial). The bird is rewarded by giving him attention. Just before another dropping is due, the bird is put back on the selected area until a dropping is produced. Again success is rewarded by attention. This process is repeated whenever the bird is handled. The bird will eventually learn to go to the selected area. Care should be taken that the bird does not hold its droppings for extended periods as this may lead to medical problems in the urinary or intestinal tracts.
Teaching birds to talk
Teaching birds to talk simply involves talking to them. Start with short easy phrases and short frequent sessions. As the bird gains vocabulary they learn easier. Many birds can learn word associations or even more complex language skills. By using phrases in appropriate situations, birds will maintain more interest and also will learn to
use them appropriately as well. Species selection is important since certain species are inherently better talkers, such as mynahs, African greys, Amazon parrots, and lories. Some cockatiels are very accomplished whistlers.
use them appropriately as well. Species selection is important since certain species are inherently better talkers, such as mynahs, African greys, Amazon parrots, and lories. Some cockatiels are very accomplished whistlers.
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